Brit-Yank freelance journalist roving around the Middle East.
Currently writing about regional geopolitics for National Geographic and others.
Mar 19, 2018
Amid land mines, militants, and air strikes, conservationists are trying to carve out a protected area in the war-torn country. Can they succeed?
Feb 25, 2018
On an unseasonably warm winter afternoon in Baghdad, Sheikh Anmar Ayid hitches up his robe and crouches by the Tigris river. Rocking back and forth on his haunches, he flicks the water from side to side – all the while chanting...
Jan 22, 2018
In his 40-something years as an archaeological excavator on Luxor’s West Bank, Mustafa Al-Nubi has witnessed a flurry of changes. Tourist numbers have surged, fallen, and then slowly grown again. Local villages have exploded in size. Even the landscape...
Dec 19, 2017
If the Nile is Cairo’s ailing heart, then polluted skies are its black lungs. Choking the city with swirling dust from the early hours, they cake the towering apartment blocks with muck and blanket the Great Pyramids in an...
Dec 11, 2017
After 200 years, the sad story of Qurna, a so-called ‘village of looters’, is coming to a close
Nov 22, 2017
Summer is always scorching in Amman, Jordan, but last July was particularly brutal for Tarek el-Qaisi, a mechanic who lives with his family in the eastern part of the city. A gang of thieves tapped into the power lines across...
Nov 14, 2016
Jun 23, 2015